Hey friends! So winter is here in the US which means many of us will be spending time in heated homes and offices. That heated air often drys out our skin, making a good moisturizer essential! Today’s DIY video tutorial show you how to craft your own solid lotion bars - they’re completely customizable right down to their scent. I hope you’ll give it a try!
Robert’s Lotion Bars
5 ounces beeswax
8 ounces sweet almond oil
4 ounces shea butter
2 ounces cocoa butter
Bergamot essential oil
Push tubes or molds
*Source for all materials: http://www.brambleberry.com/Lotion-Ba…
Microwave safe bowl
Spoon or wood craft sticks
1) Place the beeswax and sweet almond oil in a microwave safe bowl and microwave on high for one minute. Remove from microwave and stir. Microwave for an additional minute and stir again to melt these two ingredients completely.
2) Stir the shea butter and the cocoa butter into the melted beeswax/sweet almond oil mixture. Mix for 2 to 3 minutes and then add 6 drops of your bergamot essential oil (more or less according to your preference).
3) Pour the mixture into your push tubes or molds and allow them to set for at least one hour before moving or placing lids on them. At this point your lotion bars are ready to use and enjoy!
• If your mixture becomes too lumpy at any point during the process, place it back in the microwave for 30 seconds and stir.
• This is a great base recipe but know that you can alter the ingredients according to your personal preferences. There are many great essential oils to choose from! Find a wide variety here: http://www.brambleberry.com/Essential…
Robert’s Pom Pom Tutorial 101
pom pom maker*
*Source for pom pom maker: http://www.joann.com/clover-pom-pom-maker-large-2-pkg-2-1-2in-and-3-3-8in/9742677.html
**Source for strong thread: http://www.joann.com/coats-andamp-clark-dual-duty-plus-button-andamp-carpet-thread-50yds/xprd840936.html#q=button+thread&start=1
1) Extend one pair of semi-circular arms out from the pom pom maker. Hold the maker in one hand and place the tail end of your selected yarn under your thumb to hold it securely. With your other hand wrap the yarn around the extended pair of arms. Wrap until the arms are completely covered and the semi-circular space is completely filled with wrapped yarn. When you’ve finished wrapping, fold the arms back into the make and cut the yarn.
2) Extend the second set of arms out from the maker and wrap in the same manner you wrapped the first pair. When you’ve finished wrapping, fold the arms back into the make and cut the yarn.
3) Turn the pom pom maker on its side. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut the wrapped yarn, following along the channel between the two halves of the maker.
4) When you’re finished cutting, take a length of thread and slide it into the channel between the two halves of the maker, wrap it around and tie a tight knot. Next wrap it in reverse to the opposite side, tie another tight knot and then double knot it.
5) Extend both sets of arms out from the maker and separate the two halves of the maker and set aside.
6) Take the pom pom by the thread tails and shake it out. Next flatten the pom pom into a disc and trim the edges to create a circular shape. Rotate the pom pom, flatten it into a disk and trim again. Repeat this multiple times until the pom pom is a circular orb shape.
7) Take the pom pom again by the thread tails and shake it to reveal any longer pieces of yarn that may need to be trimmed. And your pom pom is complete!
· Use almost any type of fiber to create your pom poms – consider sewing thread, embroidery floss, acrylic, wool or cotton yarn
· The thread tails can be used to tie your pom pom to another items, or trimmed according to your desired use.
Robert’s Cement Tea Light Holders
Quick dry cement mix
Non stick food spray
Clear spray sealant
Protective felt feet
Exterior and interior molds
1. Mix a small amount of the cement mix according to package instructions.
2. Spray the inside of the exterior mold and the outside of the interior mold with non stick cooking spray.
3. Fill the exterior mold 3/4 of the way with the cement mix. Press the interior mold into the cement mix. Gently but firmly bang the exterior mold on your work surface to remove air bubbles. Set aside and allow to dry overnight.
4. Once dry separate your cement tea light holder from the molds. If desired, clean up edges with a metal file.
5. Spray your tea light holder with a clear sealant and allow to dry. Place felt feet on the underside of the tea light holder to protect your surfaces.
• You may opt to sift larger rocks out of your cement mix for a smoother surface.
• Protect your hands and wear rubber gloves while mixing the cement.
Robert’s No-Sew Favor Bags
Cording for drawstrings
Sharp fabric scissors
- Select a light-weight fabric for your bags and cut it into pieces measuring approximately 16” x 6”. Note that you can make these bags as large or as small as you’d like!
- Fold your fabric in half and iron the fold flat — this will create the bottom edge of your bag. Then fold each short end over 1” and iron those folds flat — this will create the channels for your drawstrings.
- Cut two 12” pieces of cording for your drawstrings. Open up one of the ironed folds and lay one piece of cording over the fold. Run a thin bead of fabric glue along the very edge of the flap, using a ruler if you’d like to help control the mess, and then fold the flap shut. Gently run your finger along the glued seam to remove any excess glue. Repeat this step with the second ironed fold. This seals shut the two channels for your drawstrings.
- Run a thin bead of glue along the long edges of the bag, again using a ruler if you’d like to help control the mess. Fold the two halves of the bag together, gently running your finger along the glued seams to remove any excess glue. This seals shut the two sides of the favor bag. Allow the glue to dry for two hours.
- Once the glue is dry, tie the drawstrings together on both sides of the bag.
- To create a monogram on the front of the bag, begin by inserting a piece of waxed paper into the favor bag — this will prevent you from inadvertently gluing the two halves together. Draw or trace a monogram lightly onto one side of the bag. Trace over your lines with a thin bead of tacky glue. Cut a piece of cording and press over the glue lines. Allow to dry completely before filling the bags with goodies!
- Get creative with your fabric and cording selections! I used linen and polyester cording from the hardware store.
- In addition to creating monograms on the face of the bags consider creating simple decorative elements like stripes or curlicues.
- When creating the fine glue lines for your monograms, it’s often helpful to transfer your glue from its regular squeeze bottle into one with a fine dispensing tip!
In advance of big holiday dinners, I have a sweet and simple DIY project that reworks the simple tabletop trivet. Lots of room for creativity in this one and it’s also super kid-friendly!
Robert’s Wood and Felt Table Trivets
Round wood beads (various sizes)*
Round felted wool balls (3/4” to 1”)**
Strong string (suede cording and linen twine are options)
Large embroidery needle
*Source for round wood beads: http://www.craftparts.com/beads-spool…
**Source for felted wool balls: http://www.joann.com/feltworks-earth-…
Directions for wood trivets:
- Select the round wood beads you’d like to use, either all one size or a variety of sizes. Lace your string through the beads until you’re able to form a necklace-like circle large enough to be place securely under a serving dish — typically 5 to 8 inches in diameter.
- Securely tie off your sting and trim the ends.
Directions for felted wool trivets:
- Select the felted wool balls you’d like to use. I interspersed ¾” size balls with ¼” round wood beads. Thread strong twine through a large embroidery needle and pierce it through the center of the felted wool ball. The matted wool fibers may be hard to pierce — in which case press the top/eye of the needle against your work surface and gently but firmly press the wool ball down over the needle. Wiggle the needle gently until it is all the way through the felted wool ball.
- Lace your twine through the felted wool balls and beads until you’re able to form a necklace-like circle large enough to be place securely under a serving dish — typically 5 to 8 inches in diameter.
- Securely tie off your twine and trim the ends.
- This DIY project is really a simple lacing activity — involve the kids in your life in creating the round wood bead trivets! Because the felted wool ball trivets require a sharp needle — extra caution should be taken!
- Get creative in your wood bead and felted wool ball combinations! Keep in mind, it’s wise to include ¾” to 1” beads or balls in every trivet — this will protect your table top by keeping hot dishes at least ¾” to 1” from its surface.
- These simple and lovely necklace-like trivets are easy to hang and display on wall hooks when not in use.
Hey friends! In today’s new video tutorial we’re tackling classic tassel construction. It’s a surprisingly simple DIY with lots of potential.
Be sure to subscribe to my channel and never miss a new video:http://bit.ly/CraftedWithRobert
Robert’s Tassel Tutorial 101
Crochet thread (size 3)*
Small clip board**
*Source for crochet thread: http://www.joann.com/aunt-lydia-s-fas…
**Source for small clip board: http://www.officedepot.com/a/products…
1. Place the loose end of your crochet thread under the clip on the clip board and begin wrapping it lengthwise around the clip board - about 50 times. When you’re finished wrapping, cut the crochet thread.
2. Cut a separate piece of crochet thread, about 12 inches in length, slide it under the crochet threads wrapped around the clip board and slide it down to the bottom of the clip board (opposite the clip end). Tie a loose knot.
3. Gently slide all of the wrapped crochet thread off of the clip board. Tighten the loose knot you created in the previous step and then double-knot it. The tails of this knot will be the threads you use to hang the tassel.
4. Hold the tassel up by the hanging threads, smooth the fibers down and then cut through the bottom loop with sharp scissors. Using a hair comb, comb through the fibers to smooth, straighten and untangle them.
5. Place the hanging threads under the clip on the clip board. Cut a separate piece of crochet thread 2-3 feet in length. Place this under the tassel on the clip board about an inch from the top of the tassel. Position this piece of crochet thread so that the side that extends to the left of the tassel is slightly longer than the tassel itself — we’ll refer to this as the short end.
6. Tie a tight knot around the tassel, creating the top of the cuff that will hold the tassel fibers together. After tying the knot, allow the short end to hang down as part of the tassel and then slowly and tightly begin wrapping the long end around and down the tassel. You can create a cuff and long or short as you’d like — the cuff created in the video was wrapped about 6 times. When you’re finished wrapping tie another tight knot allowing the tail to hang down with the other tassel fibers.
7. Again comb through the tassel fibers with a hair comb to smooth, straighten and untangle them.
8. To trim the bottom of the tassel and create an even cut, take a piece of clear tape and wrap it around the entire tassel at the point you’d like to trim. Cut right through the wrapped tape with a pair of sharp scissors. Remove the excess tape, shake out the tassel and trim any uneven fibers.
• Place your ball of crochet thread in a bowl while you’re wrapping your clip board. This will prevent it from jumping all over your work surface and leaping from the table!
• Experiment with all types of fibers when creating tassels — yarn, sewing thread, embroidery floss, ribbon!
Robert’s Sewn Paper Party Garlands!
Paper punch (optional)**
*Source for paper used in video: http://www.paper-source.com/cgi-bin/p…
**Source for paper punch used in video: http://www.joann.com/fiskars-x-large-…
1. Using a paper punch or a pair of scissors cut out a series of shapes using the paper of your choice. I chose to use a light weight paper (text weight, similar to the weight of standard copy paper) in a variety of solid colors. The numbers of pieces you’ll need will vary according to the desired length of your garland. I created a 6’ long garland, using 2” diameter scalloped circles — roughly 35 pairs of circles were used.
2. Thread your sewing machine and set it up to execute a simple straight stitch.
3. Cut two 8” lengths of ribbon to create hanging loops on both ends of the garland. I used a ¼” wide grosgrain ribbon. Take one piece of ribbon, fold it in half and sandwich the cut ends between two pieces of your cut/punched paper. Carefully place these beneath your sewing machine presser foot, create a couple of back stitches to lock the thread in place and then sew a straight line away from the ribbon loop, down the center of the paper pieces.
4. Allow the machine to sew a couple of stitches beyond the paper pieces and then feed in your next pair of shapes, again sewing a straight line right through the center of the pair. Continuing doing this until you’ve reached the desired length of your garland. Remember to allow the machine to sew a couple of stitches between each of the pair of paper shapes — these couple of stitches won’t be sewing into any material, the thread will just wrap around itself — this prevents us from creating a solid band of paper, but rather individual elements that will move nicely when the garland is hung.
5. When you’ve sewn your desired length of garland, finish it off with a second hanging loop created in the same fashion as the first. Trim any thread tails from both ends of the garland.
6. Lay your sewn garland flat on your work surface. Start with the first paper pair at one end and fold the top piece up along the sewn seam line. Flip the pair over and fold the second piece in the same way. Continue folding all of the sewn paper pair in your garland. This creates three-dimensional shapes that will give more volume and body to your finished garland.
7. Hang and enjoy!
· Experiment with a wide variety of light weight papers when creating this garland — salvaged pages from old damaged books, magazine pages, newspaper, old holiday and birthday cards and even inexpensive construction paper.
· Avoid thick cardstock, so as not to damage your sewing machine.
· These garlands can be created in a variety of shapes and color ways to coordinate with any occasion!
It’s the perfect time of year to make nature print and today’s DIY video will show you how to tackle this project in a fun and unusual way. This is a great project to include to include the little kids in your life!
Robert’s Gelatin Nature Prints
6 packs of unflavored gelatin
Water based printing ink
8 ½” x 11” Paper
Flat plant leaves
Bowls and whisk for preparing gelatin
10” x 13” jelly roll pan (cookie sheet with sides)
Inking plate** or piece of cardboard
*Source for brayers: http://www.dickblick.com/products/spe…
**Source for inking plate used in video: http://www.dickblick.com/products/ink…
1. The day before you would like to create your prints, you’ll need to prepare your printing plate. Sprinkle the contents of 6 packs of unflavored/unsweetened gelatin over two and a half cups of cool water — allow it to sit and soften for 3 minutes. Heat two and a half cups of water to near boiling and combine with cool water and softened gelatin. Whisk until thoroughly dissolved, approximately 3 to 4 minutes. Carefully pour into your jelly roll pan and place in refrigerator over night. You may find it easiest to place the pan in the refrigerator first and then carefully pour in the gelatin. Fill the pan almost to the top, noting you may have a little gelatin left over.
2. Collect foliage to use in creating your nature prints, keeping in mind that primarily flat leaves produce the best results.
3. Cover your work surface with a plastic drop cloth or recycled newspaper. Remove your printing plate from the refrigerator — the surface should be rubbery and solid. Squeeze out a small amount of printing ink onto your inking plate or a flat piece of cardboard. Roll your brayer back and forth over the ink until the brayer roller is covered in a fairly even layer of ink. Gently roll the ink onto the surface of the gelatin printing plate, creating a thin even layer of ink.
4. Thoughtfully arrange your leaves, face down, on the inked printing plate.
5. Lay a sheet of paper over your printing plate. Hold it in place with one hand and gently massage the back of the paper against the printing plate with the other hand. Carefully remove the paper by two corners to reveal your first nature print. Set aside on a covered work surface to dry.
6. Remove your foliage, lifting it off of the printing plate by the stems.
7. Place a second sheet of paper over the printing plate, again holding it in place with one hand and massaging it against the surface with the other. Remove the paper by two corners to reveal your second nature print and set aside to dry.
8. Repeat steps 3 through 7 to create as many nature prints as you’d like! The gelatin printing plate should last up to three days, keeping them in the refrigerator when not in use.
• Select foliage without thorns or sharp stems that may puncture the surface of the gelatin. You may also want to experiment pressing your collected leaves under heavy books for a day prior to using them for your nature prints.
• I chose to use a light weight paper (text weight, similar to the weight of standard copy paper), but you can just as easily use inexpensive newsprint or construction paper.
• The wet printing ink may cause your thin paper to curl or warp. If this occurs, wait until the prints are dry and then press them under some heavy books for a day to flatten.
• Create a larger printing plate in a standard size jelly roll pan by doubling the recipe used above.
Two videos in one week! I know. Check out my tutorial for a modern twist on traditional paper flowers. These have been styled for Halloween, but you could easily recreate them in another color palette for any season or holiday.
Looking for some additional inspiration? Check out these Pinterest boards:
Robert’s Paper Flower Inspiration Pinterest Board: http://pinterest.com/robertm/paper-fl…
Robert’s Halloween Inspiration Pinterest Board: http://pinterest.com/robertm/halloween/
Robert’s Halloween Paper Flowers Centerpiece
Tissue paper (shades of orange and green)
Sturdy string or twine
Wood dowels (3/16” diameter x 12” long)
Display vase or urn
Dried black beans or lentils
Hot glue gun & glue
1. Tissue paper is usually sold/packaged in large sheets — cut these larger orange sheets down into approximately 8” x 12” pieces. These will be used to create your flower blooms.
2. Fold a piece of paper towel and place in the bottom of your glass bowl. Carefully pour just enough bleach in the bowl to cover the paper towel.
3. Stack approximately 8 to 10 sheets of cut tissue paper and loosely fold in half twice lengthwise. Gently dip each short end of the stacked/folded tissue paper into the bleach. Dab against the paper towel or the sides of the bowl to remove excess bleach and prevent dripping. Carefully unfold and hang over a drying rack, allow to dry completely - approximately 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Once the tissue paper is totally dry, gently separate 5 to 6 sheets and stack. Accordion fold the stack of tissue, each fold being about ¾” to 1” wide. Trim the bleach-dipped short ends into arched or pointed petal shapes.
5. Bend the accordion fold in half lengthwise to determine the center point. Cut a length of string or twine and tie firmly but gently around the center point. Double knot and trim the tails.
6. Spread open the two accordion fold ends into fan shapes and gently separate the sheets of tissue, one layer at a time. Pull the sheets up toward the center, fluffing them to create the flower petals.
7. Apply an inch of hot glue along one end of a wood dowel and carefully press into the base of the flower — the center fold of the accordion tied with string. Set aside to dry.
8. Cut the larger green sheets of tissue paper down into approximately 7” x 7” square pieces. These will be used to create your flower foliage. Stack two squares sheets, fold in half once, fold in half a second time and then thirdly fold diagonally (as if you were going to create paper snowflakes!) Snip a tiny bit of the pointed tip off and then cut arched or pointed leaf shaped tips out of the opposite end. Unfold and place the dowel stem through the center hole, sliding the foliage up to the base of the bloom. Secure with white glue and set aside to dry.
9. When the foliage is completely dry, fluff the blooms. Fill a display vase or urn with dried black beans or lentils to surely hold the dowel/stems in place. Arrange your flowers as desired.
• I recommend using concentrated or “splash-less” bleach to help prevent excess drips. You may also opt to use rubber gloves while working with bleach to protect your hands.
• I used shades of orange for my flowers, but the color choice is totally yours! Bleach dipped orange, purple, grey and black are perfect for Halloween — but switch to brighter, festive shades and these flowers suddenly look like Spring Dahlias!
I’m excited to share a gardening DIY project with you today - we’re making seed capsules (also known as seed bombs or seed balls). They’re quick and easy, produce great results and can also double as fun party favors!
Be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel and never miss an upcoming episode! http://bit.ly/CraftedWithRobert
Robert’s Seed Capsules
Dry organic compost
Jute twine (optional)
Mason jars (optional)
*Source for air-dry clay: http://www.dickblick.com/products/cra…
1. The basic formula for creating seed capsules is 5 parts air-dry clay to 3 parts compost to 1 part seeds. Following this formula you can create as large or small of a batch as you’d like.
2. Begin by adding the air-dry clay to your mixing bowl. To this add your compost and your seeds and then knead these ingredients together until they’re well combined.
3. Break off small pieces of the mixture and roll into balls approximately 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Set them aside on a flat surface (I used a parchment covered baking sheet) and allow them to dry for about two days or until dry and hard.
4. You can easily create quirky party favors by wrapping individual seed capsules in circles of fabric and tying them with jute twine. Or create thoughtful gifts by packaging multiple seed capsules in a clear glass mason jar — wrapping a circle of fabric over the lid and securing it with jute twine.
• Select seeds that are native to the area you live in! Whether vegetable or flower seeds, choosing native seeds will heighten the chances that they will germinate and grow.
Join me on Saturday, October 26th at the amazing French General store in Los Angeles for a workshop on tassel making, indigo dip-dyeing and pom pom construction. Visit the workshops tab at frenchgeneral.com for additional info and to register!
Hey friends, I’m excited to share a new DIY tutorial up on my YouTube channel today - we’re making lovely linen wreaths. And for additional inspiration, check out my Wreaths board on Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/robertm/wreaths/
Be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel and never miss an upcoming episode! http://bit.ly/CraftedWithRobert
Autumn Linen Wreath
Selection of linen fabric (approximately ½ yard total)
12” Wreath form (straw, vine or Styrofoam)
28 gauge wire
Actual leaves or images of leaves for templates
Disappearing ink fabric marker* or pencil
*Source for disappearing ink fabric marker: http://www.joann.com/collins-vanishin…
1. Select fabric to wrap wreath form and cut into 3” wide strips. Securely pin one end to back of wreath and then snugly wrap, completely covering the form. Depending on their length you may need multiple strips to cover the wreath. Be certain to pin all fabric strips on the back of the wreath, so they’ll face the wall when hung for display.
2. Select first fabric to create leaves, fold in half and trace actual leaves or leaf images from the internet. Trace using either a disappearing ink fabric marker or a pencil. Pin the two layers of fabric together and then cut out the leaves. Repeat with various colors or linen fabric to create your desired number of leaves.
3. Separate the two fabric layers of the first leaf. Cut a length of 28 gauge wire twice the length of the leaf, fold in half and twist together. Create a bead of glue along the center length of one fabric leaf piece and press the wire onto it. Top with the second identical fabric leaf piece, press securely along glue/wire line and then set aside to dry.
4. Once leaves are completely dry, bend wire leaf spines to create lifelike shapes and pin to wreath form. Arrange leaves in an overlapping pattern to avoid seeing the pins and secure final leaf with glue.
5. Securely pin a ribbon loop to the back of the wreath for hanging.
• I used several earth-tone shades of linen, but be creative with your selection! A wide variety is available allowing you to go from monochromatic to super saturated.
• All of my supplies were easy to find at my local craft and fabric supply store.
Modern Himmeli Mobiles Instructions:
Plastic coffee stirrers*
Heavy duty thread**
*Source for plastic coffee stirrers: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/5-1-4….
Office supply stores often carry these in limited colors. You can also do an internet search for the following terms: coffee stirrers, beverage stirrers, sip sticks, sip straws.
**Source for heavy duty thread: http://www.joann.com/coats-clark-dual…
1. Each mobile element is constructed from 12 stirrers — so count out 12 and set them in front of you.
2. Measure out approximately 1 yard of heavy duty thread. Thread three stirrers and tie into a triangle formation, leaving a 2” to 3” tail. Position the triangle on your work surface with the corner where you just tied your knot pointing directly at you.
3. Thread two more stirrers onto the longest tail and tie to the upper right hand corner of your existing triangle. The formation will now look like two triangles, the first pointing at you the second adjacent one pointing away from you.
4. Thread two more stirrers onto the longest tail and tie to the lower right hand corner of the triangle you just created. The formation will now look like three adjacent triangles. Continue this step two more time, until the formation looks like five adjacent triangle and you have just one stirrer left.
5. Thread your final stirrer onto the longest tail, stretch it across to the short tail created when you made your first triangle and tie the two tails together. Double knot and trim the tails.
6. You now have two loose triangular flaps - pull them towards each other and they’ll touch at their points. Cut a short length of thread and tie these two points together. You’ve just created the first element for your mobile!
7. Now that you have the basic element construction down, creating additional elements and combining them is somewhat freestyle. I’ve found that it works well to create one large main element constructed from full length stirrers, and then create a series of smaller elements constructed from stirrers cut in half. Begin to tie your smaller elements to the corners of the larger element and a chandelier-like mobile will begin to form. Alter the look and shape of the basic element by combining short and long stirrer segments in your construction — experiment, get creative!
Want to create a larger, bolder mobile? Use regular size drinking straws.